Lessons From My First Time Bikepacking

I had been interested in bikepacking for a while. In a chance conversation with Anne, I learned she is a cycle touring and adventuring veteran. And so, we decided to go. We settled on Purbeck Bimble. It was perhaps a little ambitious, but it was very fun. Here are some things I learned.

Distances and elevation may be misleading⌗

I made the mistake of trying to understand the route from my experience road cycling. 98km with 1,400m of climbing sounds quite stepp but the kind of distance that I could do in about 4 hours on the road. So, surely two days is more than enough to do this comfortably.

I was very wrong and we ended up cutting some sections of the route. The weight of the bike with all your gear makes such a huge difference. As soon as the gradient turns up you loose all momentum. Maybe in time I’ll be able to make better estimations but for now I think I should make my best guess and double it.

Don’t rush⌗

I was quite apprehensive keeping moving and getting to camp sites in good time. Probably exacerbated by making slower progress than I had hoped. Anne, with her experience, was more relaxed and did better at enjoying the journey.

Near the end of the first day, riding along a ridge during the golden hour, I realised how fantastic being present on the adventure was. If you don’t take in the views, and look back at the paths you’ve ridden, you miss some of the best enjoyment to be had.

Camp food is excellent⌗

In the Swannage Co op I heard Anne say “I have a confession to make, I love cat food”. After a few seconds trying to parse that remarkable confession (I’m happy that you feel comfortable telling me, but perhaps you shouldn’t), I realised she had actually said “I love camp food”. Now I know that I do too.

Food and drink tastes better when you are tired. The long days and difficult terrain bikepacking makes that effect even stronger. And Anne is a gourmet camp chef.

Our Meals,

• Sausages in finger rolls (toasted on the camp flame) with salad
• Strawberries and cream (I insisted on clotted cream, naturally)
• Tinned Chilli with cheddar and bread
• “Apple crumble” (Free apples from a Swannage garden, crumbled Biscoff, stroopwaffel, and clotted cream)

It was all delicious.

Campsites are diverse⌗

We left looking for campsites too late. The result was many were completely booked. Browsing for places to stay along the route made it clear that my expectation of campsites wasn’t quite right.

They were all focused on accommodating people in cars. Most prices included “one free car”. One site had a discount for those without a car, but the minimum number of cars you could specify was one 🙄.

Many (perhaps most) of the sites provided some kind of luxury experience in giant, fancy tents with furniture, beds, fires. The prices per night were comparable to hotels. Presumably this is for those who want to say they have been camping without having spent any of the prerequisite effort or enduring any hardship. People brought tents as large as a flat and trailers full of stuff. Meanwhile I was carrying everything I needed, and some things I didn’t, just on my bike.

Being a little cynical is fun but it was clear that different sites served different needs. One site we stayed at was very popular with families. There was a well stocked shop and quite a lot to do on site. I just would have liked to see more room for self-supported travellers. At least when you are bikepacking, what you really want is somewhere safe to stay with some basic facilities.

Talk to people⌗

I am introverted. I find talking to strangers difficult and it wouldn’t occur to me to start a conversation with people along the route. Anne on the other hand, does this quite naturally and there was a lot to gain.

There was sense of community among people walking or camping, and particularly with those also travelling by bike. It was very easy to pick up local insights and recommendations for detours or places to eat. And, it is of course great to connect with different people, particularly if you are spending a long time in the same group, or alone.

One group of bikepackers we met included the contributor who had designed the route! That seemed like an incredible coincidence but I suppose it shouldn’t be surprising to meet him in the area he loves to cycle and map. We also met two locals who like to camp in their van, close to nature, and play music on their pipe, drum and digereidoo. I regret not asking to take a picture.

Plan to adapt⌗

After arriving at the first camp site as the sun was setting, it was clear we couldn’t do the whole route in the time we had. There are so many variables and unknowns that make it difficult to estimate your progress, and you never know where you will have problems.

Planning ahead, we found some good sections to cut, and places where we could decide to take shortcuts if needed. You should be flexible and should expect to make changes. That way, you can prioritise the important things (camp sites, food and drink, points of interest) and spend time in the beautiful places you find unexpectedly.

I want to go again⌗

Not many hours into the cycling, we were talking about what other routes we were interested in. That enthusiasm wasn’t dented by the climbs and rocky, muddy trails. I’m thinking about the earliest time of the year I would want to go, what kind of route would work in more challenging weather and how I can fit cooking equipment in my bags.

You will be exhausted⌗

After the trip (and on the last day) the exhaustion set in. My legs felt OK, no sore muscles. It was less that the cycling was too much, more that the attrition of long days and imperfect sleep had built up. Sat on the final train home the relief made staying awake difficult. That difficulty continued for the following week.

Lifting my bike up my front steps when I got home tested my strength more than anything else.